1-June-2016 Nueva to Colunga 24km walk 11km train

No Woke at 6.30, only because we couldn't sleep anymore. Got ready and walked to the Nueva train station to get on the train to Ribadesella as we felt the description of this walk included way too much road walking. We met someone later in the day who said they really enjoyed walking this section and not too much road, que sera, sera.
Once at Ribadesella station we had a queer old man who guided us through town to the bridge over the Ria. We head to the beach but didn't find any restaurants so back tracked a little to José cafe and had croissants and 2 coffees, I also snuck in a jamon and egg roll. In the cafe I recognise a photo on the wall, it was a big photo of the story bridge with Brisbane city in the background. So far from home but so close.
The days walk started lovely along the beach promenade, not long enough though before we were in the back streets. About 2km of road we were on a dirt track. It alternated from dirt to sealed for a while. At La Vega beach we stopped for another coffee, after this the track headed uphill to Berbes. Between Berbes and La Isla it all went to shit. Somehow we ended up on the road again instead of walking near the beach, once again our guide book is missing about 7kms of information. Once we discovered our error we found a country lane and headed in the right direction, it once again probably added a couple of kms to the journey. We finally got back to the beach, just before La Isla was a cafe, we stopped for lunch and rest.
After lunch walked along the road again, eventually there was a track running parallel to the road we used, we met another Australian couple along this section, Paul and Penny from Canberra. Talked with them the last 4km into Colonga. They had been walking for 17 days so far. They had a great app which they recommended "Wise Pilgram" it has maps, information on the towns and an accomodation guide. Might be able to stay on the track a bit better with this guide. Once in town we parted ways, they went in search of accommodation we went in search of beer. I don't know how they went but we were successful. Had a tankard of beer, it was a big glass, we downloaded the app and used it to find a cheap hotel nearby, Hotel Entreviñes, one double room with private shower 40€.
One thing we have been disappointed with is the food, it is impossible to get a meal with vegetables. Tonight we went to two different restaurants that were not serving food, we settled for a cafe and had awful hamburgers and fried potatoes, that seem to come with every dish.

31-May-2016 Llanes to Nueva 20km

After messaging Renee, facebooking etc. Wiped the sleep from the eyes and started getting ready for the days walk. We don't have a fixed destination in mind for today, the feet were so sore yesterday decided to rest them when they need it today. I picked up some gel inserts for the boots last night, have all toe nails filed off and two pairs of socks on hopefully that is enough to get through the day.
Left the Posado del Rey at 8.30 and headed to Poo (the name of the town). Lynette was the first to step in Poo. We had breakfast in a Poo Bar (bacon and egg rolls), then wiped the Poo from our boots and headed west. Next town is Celorio, there were many beautiful flowers in bloom along this stretch to the beach, took many photos. We stopped at a supermarket where we bought more batteries for the Garmin (recording not following) and Apples for snacking. Headed down to the beach, the track followed the beach, but it was short lived, we were back on road before we knew it. The days walking alternated between sealed path, concrete path and dirt track and road, not enough dirt track for my liking. The highlight of the day was walking towards the Inglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, a nice little church on the water. As we were walking up a nice country lane we met a man who told us where to stay in Nuevo, he offered to ring ahead but I told him que sera, sera. Next point of interest was a monastery in bad repair, it looks like it is being renovated, which is good. Our guide book said 17km to Nuevo but 17 came and went, it turned out to be 20km. I hate that guide book author. We got into town and went to the place we were told about, Casa Principal, a double bed, shared toilet facilities and washing done for 25€. We showered then headed out for lunch at 3.30 pm we had the menu de dia again, had bean soup with chorizo, bread, beef goulash, chips, ice cream (torte for Lynette) , bottle of wine, small bottle of  beer and coffee for 22€. We are thinking of the train in the morning so we decided to walk to the station to check the timetable, we saw a pharmacy and stopped to get more ibuprofen. We got 40 600mg tablets for 1.95€ what a bargain.
One of the local beers here is called Estrella (star) it sounds like Australia and Oi means today, so I reckon Estrella, Estrella, Estrella, Oi, Oi, Oi mean 3 beers and hurry up about it.

30-May-2016 Munorrodero to Llanes 24km walk, 7km train

We both had a good nights sleep, packed up and were walking by 8.10 am. We walked straight through Unquera, intending to stop in Colombres for breakfast, as in the guide it was described as a lively little town. It might be lively if you go to the center, but the track takes you just on the outskirts, we were through it before we knew it, breakfastless and feeling gypped on the lively.
This is the town we are catching the train from, the mornings walk was 9km to the station, we arrived at 10.30 and train is due 10.55. It arrived at 11.05, we got on for the one stop ride that would cut 7 kms of road walking out of our day. The three German girls we met yesterday were already on the train. We all got off at Pendueles, the train station is about a kilometer out of town, we walked in and found a cafe, had coffee and croissants, as there isn't another stop for a while we also bought lunch, two bananas and two bocadillos. The girls headed off first, ten minutes later off we went towards Camping de Paz a small Playa (beach). We followed the coast to some blowholes, the tide wasn't right so no blow, only what sounded like heavy breathing. This is where we stopped for lunch and a Siesta. After about half an hour the Germans girls turned up, somehow we had passed them.
We walked on to the small town of Andrin, from here the track followed the road uphill, this is where the sore feet and knees came into play again, from here we could see our destination but it was still 4 kms away. The coast was beautiful to look at and the track was high in the hills overlooking town and the coast, if only the legs weren't so sore. Made it to town eventually, stopped for a couple of limon frescas before a beer. Then down the road to find accommodation. We liked the posado we were in last night so headed to another Posado. This time Posado del Rey. It is a little more expensive at 45€ but roomy with private bath again. The owner took Lynette in hand and showed her her family, all 10 children, multiple grandchildren and her great grand-daughter who is 18. This was the first building in the first street in town. We think Emporor Charles V may have visited here.
Most restaurants don't open for meals until after 8.00pm, so we slept for a while before heading out, we would have liked to have walked to the beach but Lynette's small toe is painful and both of the balls of my feet, we could just make it to the restaurant.
We both ordered the meal of the day (menu del dia) which gives a choice of about 6 items for 1st course, the same again for 2nd course, a choice of desserts, bread with olive oil and/or vinegarette and a bottle of red wine for 10€ each.
I had two draft beers, spaghetti and bolognese then some sort of schnitzel and coconut torte, Lynette had salad, pulled beef, chocolate torte and most of the bottle of wine. Our feet were feeling just fine but the legs were wobbly.

29-May-2016 Comillas to Munorrodero 24km

Woke up after a great nights sleep, Lynette not so, she had slept well until 1.00am then had listened to the hall clock chime off the hours until 4.30 am. I let her sleep on until 8.00am then had to wake her to get moving. As it was we didn't leave the accomodation until 9.00 am. We walked to town and had the same breakfast as yesterday, coffee and croissants, this time though the croissants were toast, they were beautiful, what a delicious treat.
After breakfast and talking to people inside and outside the cafe we didn't start walking until 10.00am. We headed out of town towards the river. About 15 minutes later had a message from Chantal replying to a message I had sent earlier, we video called her, it was a 3 for 1 call, spoke to Chantal, Lila and Jeremy. Lila had been sick lately and was excited to show us the two pills she had to take daily. Jeremy had arrived in back to Australia recenty and had spent half the week working for Andy, he was still excited by it. After the call we continued the walk, not long after we had a beautiful view with river leading to a sandy beach (complete with sailboat passing by) on one side and snow covered mountains on the other.
We headed roughly along the coast but with only the occasional glimpse. Then inland past the Santa Maria Golf Course at Santa Ana. At the 12km mark we came into San Vicente de la Barquera, a beautiful little seaside village. It was very picturesque, we crossed the bridge into town and rested in the park. After 1/2 hr we bought a jamon and queso bocadillo from a nearby cafe and headed up the hill and out of town, which was surprisingly quick. It wasn't long before we were heading sharply uphill. I had picked this point to start eating the bocadillo, I had to give up as I could gasp and eat at the same time. Once on top of the hill we had a view of San Vincente way back.
The track then deteriorated back to road walking, then the rain started again, which once again cooled down the day. We hadn't walked in the rain long when we came to Serdio, a small town with a bar. We took the opportunity to get out of the wet and to enjoy a beer or two as well. We meet two German girls who were staying the night for 7.00€ each and three more German girls who had only walked 6 km and had had enough, they had ordered a taxi to take them to the nearest station then they were travelling to Llanes, our destination tomorrow. After two beers the rain stopped, we walked a futher 4 km to Munorrodero, we had had enough walking by this stage, we walked to a local accomodation Posado de Muno. The hostess here was lovely, we had a great room with full private bathroom for 40.00€, she drove us to the local cafe after we had had a bath and rest, arranged for the manager to call her at the end of our meal, came back to take us home and told us a bit about the region. She made our day. Tomorrow we have planned to miss a bit of the road walking out - until then..

28-May-2016 Santillana del Mar to Comillas

Woke around 7.00am and tested the legs as the toilet was beckoning, the ibuprofen we took last night must have done the job as a. I had a good nights sleep and b. My legs aren't too sore. Lynette had had a reasonable night sleep after she closed the shutter as a light was shining in her eyes before that.
We packed up, dressed in our slightly wet clothes, hung our wet socks on the outside of the packs and walked towards the camp-ground which is the way out of town.
We only made it 300 m before we found a place open for breakfast, stopped for coffee and croissants.
Headed off for the second time up hill and out of town. One kilometer later we had our first bit of uncertainty about the road to Arroyo, we thought we should be on a track but we were on a main road, which turned out to be correct, just down the main road was the single car track, still paved but no traffic. We actually felt good walking wise for about 10 km and the scenery was much better than yesterday, as it was hillier than yesterday eventually the blisters started playing up, then the knees again. We stopped against a wall to pop the same blisters we popped last night, Lynette changed into her Keens, with socks, quiet the look that is. We continued into Cobreces which was situated at a perfect distance for us to make a good long lunch break to recover. It is 12.8km in with a little over 10km to go. The town itself is small but has an impressive church.
We had come off the track a little to eat and while sitting there had seen 4 walkers go past so after lunch we blindly followed them, at the next Junction was a shell marker and arrow, once again we blindly followed, about 500 meters down the road we started to question if it was the correct way, it was not. So back up the road we went, but instead of going all the way back to the track we took a short-cut down the main road. A short cut but very hard on the feet. We joined the Camino del Norte again in Venta de Tramalon. About a kilometer later we stopped for a beer in La Iglesia the sky to the West was looking ominous, ten minutes later in Pando we got to try out our Ponchos, as there was heavy rain, lightning and thunder. The lightning was close but not too close to worry about and the rain had made for a pleasant walking temperature so we kept going all the way to the end in Comillas. Once there we took a break to fish out information on where the Albergue was, we found it OK but once again we were too late. We had arrived at 4.15pm, the first guest in the Albergue had arrived at 12.30 and the 20th (full) at 2.30pm. We asked for recommendation and the lady at reception showed us a house with rooms to let and rang ahead to ask if there was room, there was for €15.00 each again - bargain we took it up.

27-May-2016 Santander to Santillana del Mar

The day started off very leisurely with a full breakfast. We took the obquitory pieces of fruit for the walk, returned to the room and pulled out the notes for the first time. We were under the impression we were walking 24 km but the notes said 32 km. It was 9.00am before we started walking. We utilized Google maps to navigate through town, probably 1/2 hr into the walk we got excited when we saw our first shell marker in the pavement. We were planning on stopping every hour, the first hour was on a picnic table near a main road as this seemed to be the track. We didn't have a good break again still 12.30 when we finally found a place suitable to stop. I had a coke, Lynette a cup of coffee and we ate our fruit.We reas the guide again, there is a 7km shortcut across a railway bridge spanning the river, we were up for that. It had rails both ways and we had just seen a train cross so we walked on that side off the tracks. Halfway across the bridge the rails started humming, there was another train coming, it was clear in the direction behind us as we could see for miles in that direction so it wqs coming towards us, we crossed over just in time to see a freight train coming down the rails we were just walking on. Got to the end of the bridge and took a photo to remember the excitement. The rest of the day was just more road walking. We had another stop at 2.30 where I had a couple of beers. The feet and knees we already sore. After this it was just a slog, we stopped again at the 27km mark and we still had 10km to go. Something wrong with the days km forecast. At this stage we had to make a decision, continue or stop and make up the kms later or catch the train. Stupidly we continued all the way. We were so glad to get to town, we missed where the first Albergue was a were standing there trying to make a decision but we were both exhausted when two young girls, also walkers must have recognised our distress and offered help. There took us to the first Albergue but it was full, he rang another, it still had room so off we went. We arrived at Casona Solar de Hildalgos, the proprietor was a very humorous guy who is obviously used to sore and tired walker, we took up the private room for 15 Euro each and got a chocolate eachvas a welcome gift - it was much loved. Hot shower and bed what else do we need. We cleaned up, did our washing, popped our blisters and went in search of beer and food.  Didn't have to walk far thankfully, there was a bar and restaurant straight across the street, still took about five minutes to get there. After dinner took a short hobble arond the very picturesque medieval village. It was getting a bit cool after a very warm day so we headed in at about 9.00pm. Got to rest up for tomorrow.

26-May-2016 Madrid to Santander

Paul arrived into Madrid from Accra via Lisbon at 9.00am. Lynette had caught the metro to meet him from her Student accommodation where she has been studying Spanish for the last three weeks. Enjoyed at cup of cafe con leche at the airporto before buying the metro tickets from P2 for 5 euro each back into town. We repacked, showered and headed to the train station Chamartin where in the parking lot is a luggage storage facility for 3.60 euro a day. We left Lynette's suitcase and enjoy a bocadillo before boarding the 14.30 train to Santander. This was a 4 hour journey where we could watch the changing country side go past. Lot of beautiful poppy by the side of track, vast plains, snow covered mountains, hilly country, industrial estates, towns amazing roads and bridges, lots to see. Once we arrived in Santander we checked into the Silken Coliseum hotel dropped our backbacks then went in search of good beer. We went via the waterfront first stopped for the first beer, then went up onecof the many pedestrian streets where we had our second with tapas before continuing to a restaurant where we had a glass of red with gourmet burger, ot bad for a first day. Looking forward to walking tomorrow, we have breakfast included so don't think it will be an early start.