Final thoughts

Gear list

Two water bottles - only one 1 litre would suffice
Pillow case - only need an old thin lightweight one
Sleeping bag liner - option to also use as pillow case
Thermals - just in case
Two pairs of long walking pants, easy wash, quick dry  - needed
One pair of shorts to sleep in - not required.
Two short sleeved shirts, easy wash, quick drying- one for hiking, one at night - needed.
One short sleeve light weight cotton shirt to sleep in ( personal preference).
Two hiking underwear, easy wash, quick dry - needed.
One cotton underwear to sleep in ( personal preference).
Lightweight jacket for cold nights - needed.
Poncho - needed, also doubles as ground sheet at break time.
Brimmed Hat - needed
Sunglasses
Gaiters - preference
Neck warmer - never used
Bandanna - used lots
Handkerchief - needed lots
Socks - took 4 pair - only need 2 quick drying.
Lightweight crocs or sandals, can double as lightweight second shoes.
Walking boots - I took an old pair of Salomon trail running shoes, for the amount of road walking I would recommend dark coloured runners with lots of underfoot padding.
Walking pole
GPS to log journey
Phone with Wise Pilgrim or Buen Camino app.
Camera - personal option.
Headphones - used often.
Bluetooth speaker  - used daily
Back up battery, chargers.
Leatherman
Toiletries all travel sizes - toothbrush - toothpaste - floss - mouthwash - shampoo - soap - deodorant - lip balm - sunscreen - cologne - hair brush (Face cream - moisturiser for Lynette)
Eye patches.
Ear plugs.
Tablet - used to watch TV shows - it was heavy, leave next time.
Kindle for guide - used kindle app on phone instead, so not required.
Lightweight blow up pillow.
Lightweight sit ons - foam padding
Water bottle straps - didn't use
Beanie - didn't use.
Clothes line - good use.
Toilet paper - didn't need.
Tissues - didn't need.
8 pegs - used on occasion.
First aid kit - mainly use needle, blister bandages, ibuprofen, strapping tape, knee braces, band aids, elastaplast, physio cream (Voltarin).
Sewing kit.
Berrocca - used daily.
Passports and Camino passports.
Sporks.
Plastic cup - didn't take but would have been handy.

18-June-2016 Santiago

We started the day with a nice toasted croissant and coffee, Lynette had tosada again then we headed back to the cathedral to get our seats for the midday pilgrim mass. We had been told to get in before 11.00 to get a seat. We noticed that the tour groups all came in around the 11.30 mark, 11.15 you would have still got a seat but not long after.
The mass was interesting, that had primary school kids seated in front of the altar, secondary behind, then a priest procession of about 20 appeared. The mass was given in Spanish, it seemed like at one point they were naming the routes and the nationalities of the pilgrims but we couldn't tell for certain. The mass cumulated with the swinging of the incense, apparently this tradition started to mask the smell of the pilgrim congregation, maybe the scrotum washing wasn't sufficient.
After mass we spotted Felix and Phoebe talking to Martin, we exchanged numbers and rushed off to catch up with Julie and Chris for lunch as arranged. It was a good lunch with plenty of our highlights and lowlights discussed and lots of belly laughing.
We said our final goodbyes, then we had souvenir shopping to do. We bought the small stuff, fridge magnet, hat pins, a couple of tiles, a desk top way marker and a pair of arrow socks.
We retired for an afternoon rest. Lynette received a text from Phoebe to come out to a bar in the evening to celebrate Felix's birthday. We did this, Martin was there for a while, after he left Dermont, Matt and Hannah turned up. More good reliving of the last three weeks, much beer and wine consumed. Eventually we headed off sadden that the journey is complete and we now have to return to the world again. We  leave Santiago at 6.00am on the train to Madrid.
Lynette will continue Spanish studies in Madrid for another week before heading to Valencia for 2 more before heading back to Australia to visit the kids. I will return to Ghana one day earlier than usual to have an offshore medical. Hasta luego!

17-June-2016 Brea to Santiago 26km

We woke, had breakfast downstairs with Dermont, Matt, Sarah and Hanna, after this we asked the landlord to call a taxi for us, she tried multiple numbers but no cars were available, we had to walk the 5 kms  back to O Pedrouzo again. We said our goodbyes and headed off at 8.30am.
We walked for about 9.00kms before we stopped for a coffee at Amenal. 
We photo bombed Chris and Julie's photo just before the airport and walked with them to San Paio where we stopped for lunch with good company.
After lunch we continued on, we were dragging our heels a bit as we didn't want the walk to finish. We slowed to talk to a Perth lady about the Bibbulmun track in Western Australia which helped her up a hill. Then we spoke to two Columbian ladies, mother and daughter we assume,  The daughter was hobbling. We stopped for photos at a big monument, we stopped for ice cream. Once we hit the outskirts of Santiago, it was a very long haul to the end. We finally made it to the square behind the Cathedral about 3.00pm, we didn't see anyone we knew at first but Stefan came out of the crowd to welcome us in which was nice.
We thought it would be a while before Chris and Julie, Dermont and the kids and Sarah and Fletcher would arrive so we went to the hotel to drop the backpacks. The hotel was another 1.5km from the square, we just checked in, dropped the packs toileted, then headed straight back to the square.
We waited in the square for a long while, got coffee, stuck our heads into the museum, went to the cathedral and hugged Saint James took lots of photos, we kept going back to the square but nobody arrived, then we went to check the line for the compostela, it wasn't so bad so we joined the line. Lynette went to the toilet, while on the way she passed a tourist office where she proceeded to buy our train tickets back to Madrid. We recieved our compostelas shortly after, a lot of our 'to do' boxes were checked.
We returned to the square and snuck up on Chris and Julie as they had just arrived. They told us the others were staying out of town tonight and would be in tomorrow. We organised to meet up after mass the following day and parted ways.
We stopped off for a menu del dia on the way home in the touristy part of the old town. We ended up talking to another old Aussie and a Japanese guy, they were and odd couple, as the Japanese guy could understand us but not him as he had a strong country Victorian accent.
It was late when we arrived home with mixed feelings about finishing, at least we can sleep in tomorrow and walk without packs.

16-June-2016 Arzua to O Pedrouzo 22km

Woke up and had coffee in the cafe next door, returned to the room,  packed up and walked out the door as the church bells pealed nine. The weather was fine-ish, we pulled the pack covers on but left the Ponchos off. It wasn't long before we joined the mainstream of the combined routes of the Camino de Santiago, and it was crazy, wall to wall people, at least most were heading in the same direction.
We started the day feeling great in the body department. It didn't seem long before we stopped for more coffee and breakfast at about the 6 km mark. The toilet line was a sight to behold about 20 deep. The walk itself was beautiful with many long worn country lanes meandering through dark forests. It was nice, with the obquitory road passages thrown in. Most of the paths were paved. We didn't really stop again other than to chat at another restaurant where we met Brian, an NZ guy we met last night and Dick and Gene a Canadian couple from Montreal. We plodded on to O Pedrouzo, whem we arrived we basically went door to door from pension to pension but all were full, then we started on the Albergues, they also were full. We sat at a cafe and let our fingers do the hard work, using booking.com we found a pension (Pension O Meson) 5kms out of town that still had room, waved down a taxi and off we went.
Once there we were shown our room. We dropped our packs and when for something to eat and saw Sarah and Hamish at the bar. We told them our story and that all ahead was booked out. They rang a few more Albergues both sides of town with no luck. They also decided to stay here. Sarah put up her tent in the football field next door. Hamish had his kids arriving today to walk the last leg of the Camino with dad, so he booked a room.
We ate, we showered, we washed clothes, we slept, we woke, we went downstairs and met Hamish again with his kids, Matt and Hannah. We enjoyed a couple of beers together while watching Northern Ireland beat Ukraine. Then Lynette and I went for a bit of a walk to get bearings on where we were. We returned, we watched a little more football, we ate, we slept.

15-June-2016 Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzua 24km

Slept late this morning as it was cold and wet outside, conditions conducive to stay in the warmth. There was another reason we were delaying, today is the day we leave the Norte and join the Frances we are a bit apprehensive about being lost in the crowd.
We grabbed a coffee to go ( cafe con leche, llevar) next door to where we were staying, then headed off into the  rain ☔. Our breath was steaming and hands freezing on our walking poles. We found if we pulled one hand inside the poncho it was still sealing the rain out and kept the other hand warmer. At one juncture I took Lynette's pole so she could keep both hands warm.
At the 8km mark was our first coffee break at Boimil. Hammish, Sarah and her dog Felix were already there. Up until today we had always taken our coffee outside if possible but it was too cold today, Sarah had to endure the cold to be with her dog which she had covered with rain coats to keep warm, she was an impressive woman, she hiked with her tent for herself and the dog, a good supply of dog food and lord knows what else.
Others arrived, Stefan a Hungarian guy, Chris and Julie the other Australian couple and others we knew by face only. It was like a farewell. We all stuck around for a while to ward off the cold and to see if there was to be a break in the rain.
Lynette and I were the first to leave again. The next stop was to be our lunch, it was only 4km away but all road walking. We found a nice bakery just before exiting Boimorto, they had a bread with bacon and cheese baked inside, it was warmed up for us. It was delicious.
The rest of the walk was all road walking in the rain. It was kind of surreal as there was nobody else in sight and we know we are heading to large crowds. Even one kilometer out there was no sign of the Frances crowds. In fact we met a Spanish woman coming back towards us who thought she must have taken a wrong turn somewhere because of the lack of people.
When we did arrive in Arzua at about 2.00pm there weren't that many people on the streets as the rain had forced people indoors. We tried 4 pensions before we found one that wasn't full. Still a resonable rate at 40€. Lynette was freezing and headed straight under covers, I had a shower and washed the clothes. After Lynette warmed up she also showered then we went in search of coffee, after coffee came two alcoholic beverages, Stefan the Hungarian guy arrived we chatted a while, then we went in search of food again.
There was a nice looking restaurant we passed on the way to our pension that offered the meal of the day special, we timed it perfectly by chance to be there just as the doors opened. Lynette had a broad bean, tomato and garlic starter, I had green peas with chorizo and bacon, it was a treat to get some vegetables at last. The mains were meat and potatoes of course, and it was good. Pastry was apple tart for me and of course we finished the bottle of red wine that came with the meal and all of the bread. All finished with a couple of cafe con leches. During the course of being here I have reduced the cup size to the smaller cup the locals use, the coffee just tastes better than the grande size. As it is in a smaller cup I think I am more aware of making it last longer by taking smaller sips which, to me, enhances the taste.
During the course of the meal the restaurant had filled, we were finally starting to see the crowds.
We returned to our room and settled down to sleep at 10.00pm. At 2.00am we were both awake as some revellers on the street were making their rooster impressions by being cocks and a deaf neighbour had returned to the room and decided to watch TV at high volume. Welcome to the crowds of the Frances way.
Such selfless pilgrims full of respect. Respect for the historic journey. Respect for the hardships endured by past travellers. Respect for their current fellow travellers.
Selfless pilgrims trying to discover their true selves, where they put the phone and where the damn keys to the room are. In the morning the same selfless pilgrims will try to discover how they spent that 100€ last night.

I have discovered within myself true peace starts with keeping the mouth still.

14-June-2016 Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes 26km

Had breakfast in the Albergue at 7.00am, fresh coffee and bread/toast and jam. About a third of the people had already left we packed up said our goodbyes, recieved a nice send off from the volunteers and started the walk at 7.30am.
The walk took us through a granite quarry which was interesting. The rain returned but not too heavy to begin with. Today was the first day we could see fellow walkers at all times, things are getting busy.
Our initial walk was 20kms without a break other than technical stops and a quick delve in the pack for snacks. There was a lot of road walking and the rain increased in volume the further we went and it was cold.
The last part of the walk took us around a man made lake. We saw that the Albergue didn't open until 4.30 so we decided to get a room in the hotel. A good choice we had a hot shower and dried off, then went to eat. We saw a irish fellow, Hamish and Italian girl Sarah who had been walking with her Labrador. Hamish said they was a big crowd over at the gates of the Albergue huddled in an archway out of the rain waiting for the gates to open. He was freezing so had come for some coffee to warm up. They had come to town about an hour after us and had walked in a downpour.
We slept the afternoon away. Went out later to look at the monastery and to the supermarket for supplies, then went back to the cosy room for an early night.

13-06-2016 Baamonde to Miraz 14kms

We had a good chance for a sleep in this morning but failed, we were up at 6.30am. We decided to go back to the car wash / service station / cafe for breakfast. Had a coffee and an enormous croissant, but the croissant was more like a bread loaf than the nice fluffy, flaky delight I have become accustomed to.
After breakfast it was pack up time, we faffed around a bit, it wasn't until 7.40am that we began the days walk. It was raining when we left and looked like it had settled in.
The walk started down the main road, it wasn't long though before we crossed the train track and found ourselves on a nice scenic bridge, not long after we were at a very old chapel in a hidden grove, it was very nice. The walk continued to be a good one, in the 14kms we stopped twice for coffee and I had the camera out more today than the last couple of days.
We decided to stay at the albergue in Miraz, it sleeps about 28, all in one room with toilets and reception in the centre and kitchen and communal dining/lounge at the other end.
It doesn't open until 3pm but Lynette saw movement inside and tried the door, one of the host let us in as it was raining they were letting people in early. Ww had arrived at 12 and sat around drinking tea, eating biscuits and having a good old yarn with people.
At about 2.30 we went to the pub next door for a beer or 3 and a bocadillo. Spain was playing the Chezh Repulic in the Euro cup so we watched that from start to finish, Spain won 1-0.
We returned for a rest but ended up speaking to a Perth couple we had met on the road yesterday, Julie and Chris. At 7.00 we went to the local church to check it out and hear it's story, hosted by the staff of the Albergue. It was good, straight after we went to another pub up the road for the pilgrims meal. Soup, chicken and rice, wine, bread and dessert for 9€ each. Julie and Chris met us there, we had a good old laugh, didn't get back until 9.45, ww thought lockout may be at 10.00 but it was 10.30. It was a good relaxing day.

12-June-2016 Abidan to Baamonde

Started walking at 7.40am, it was cool with a stiff head wind, the day I started with a sweater on, it didn't last long though before it was unbearable hot.
The first break was meant to be at the 14km mark but we were pleasantly surprised to find a bar at 8kms instead. We had our breakfast, coffee and toast, the walk today was mainly on country lanes either side of the main road. We passed a nice medieval bridge along the way at the 14km mark we had coffee again, then at Vilalba we had to make the decision, stop here or continue another 20km to Baamonde. We stopped in a small cafe to order lunch, a bacon and cheese bocadillo and an apple tart. We kept walking, the days walk had been easy but straight after lunch we headed quite steeply down to cross the river then uphill a lot to get back out again. About 3 km out of town we stopped in a field to eat our lunch. It had started raining and stopped again since we left town, the Ponchos made good ground sheets to lay out on to have a good break.
We rest of the walk was a bit of a blur, we passed an albino peacock that was interesting. At one place there were plastic Coca-Cola chairs outside so Lynette open the door only to realise it was someone's house. The owner was good about it and showed us where the hotek was.
Coming into town was another heart breaker, the road had diverted quite a bit adding to the end, then the hostel was outside of town but at the far end. In the end we had walked 42km. Lynette had considered filling her boots with dog poo to soften the impact of the road. The hostel was best described as a functional box, it did the job, no frills. We crashed on the bed for a while, to wait for the feet to stop humming. After about 20 minutes I got up to shower and wash the clothes.
The petrol station next door was also the restaurant and cafe, the restaurant didn't start until 9.00 but the cafe served some food, we order salad and pizza as we weren't going to last until 9.00 pm. This waa enjoyed immensely. After eating I had to go walk around the car park while Lynette ordered ice cream, this is because I was just short of 50,000 steps for the day on my fitbit. That done enjoyed the ice cream and shut down for the day.

11-June-2016 Lourenza to Abadin 28km

We started walking at 7.40am after a decent nights sleep, the first part of the journey was quite steep but in didn't last long before it was a more gradual climb. It was a very rural walk. We had new sign posts and mile markers showing us the way to Mondonedo. We stopped of for breakfast and two coffees this morning. In Mondonedo is a nice looking old monastery but it is closed so no look inside.
Once we started walking again it was a steeo climb out of town, in wasn't long before we were looking down on the town and monastery. The next stage was long but very pretty, we were gradually heading up a long valley, plenty of off road walking, and most of the road walking could be done on the soft verge, a much better day for the feet.
We didn't have another sit until the end of the days walk, we only stopped at the top of particularly big hills and to get bearings.
We met a British couple about 5 kms from the finish who we started talking to and didn't finish talking to until we left then at the albergue in Gontan which is just before our destination of Abadin.
We arrived at 2.00pm, or nce in town we booked into a pension for 39€ then dumped the packs and headed across the road to the El Paso bar/restaurant for the menu of the day. We had an excellent meal there for 3€ more that we paid for the accomodation but it was worth it.
We returned to the room and showered / washed clothes, then shut down into sleep mode for a while.
At around 6 we went out again, we had seen a lot of soccer players wandering around so went in search of the football field, we found it but no players, kept looking found the players at the local school but they were wrapping up for the day. Went back to the bar as there is nothing else in this town, had a coffee, then went to the supermarket and bought some junk food and went back to the pension to watch some TV on the tablet.
We are going to attempt the 40km walk tomorrow but it depends on Lynette's heels, we intend on leaving early, breakfast at 14km, decision point at 20km, if the feet are OK we go for it, if not we arrive early.

10-June-2016 Ribadeo to Lourenza 28km

We woke early and we on the road at 7.00am as we had planned. 4.8kms later we were having breakfast just outside of Vilela, the bar was on the far side of town, at first we thought we had missed it. When we arrived there was one lady just leaving, we ordered coffee, two more walkers turned up, we ordered eggs and cheese then the national Spanish cycling team turned up (seemed like it) must have been about 15 guys. Good thing we had ordered already.
The eggs were different, two slices of bread with the center removed and the egg broken into this, then cheese sprinkled on top, then grilled, it was very easy and very nice.
The walk today was very pleasant, the day had started out sprinkling lightly, we had put our Ponchos on, but taken them off again when we got to the first real hill. We left the pack covers on, but all in all it was about 20 deg C with a good breeze so good walking conditions.
We were making good time, at Villamartin Grande we had just come up a long rise when we saw a cafe advertised, this wasn't in any guide books but we thought it too good to pass up and dropped in for another break, our day now consisted of two more legs of around 5kms each.
After leaving this shop we were back to pounding the pavement, it felt like my boots had been filled with concrete, all the aches and pains were returning.
Made it to the next shop in San Xusto for another break. After leaving there the walk was back on dirt roads through a eucalyptus forest, we had caught up with Petra from a few days back and was talking to her for the last leg, which was downhill into Lourenza. We could see the town from about a kilometer out and it didn't take long to get there. We walked Petra up to the Albergue which had 3 rooms, a 4 berth, a 6 berth and an 8 berth. We went back to a pension, we had to phone for someone to come, they said they would be 20 minutes, about 15 minutes later another walker arrived, he also ran and was told about 20 minutes. She did arrive after the second 20, and booked us in, pretty modest place but private bano from 15€ each, it will do. There were only 2 more accomodation options and they looked about the same.
We had baths, did our washing in a machine for the first time this trip and rested.
Later we found a place that had Radler on tap, it was very nice, we had a bocadillo as well to stave off the hunger.
For dinner we bought some yoghurt, milk and muesli and had a breakfast dinner.

Rest day in Ribadeo.

The ibuprofen didn't work effectively last night, we had both woken at time with aches all over - time for a well earned break.
We spent the day in Ribadeo taking the weight off the feet.

8-June-2016 Navia to Ribadeo 33km

Woke up very tired this morning, the big days may be taking its toll. Took our time getting out of bed and to getting ready,  checked out and found our breakfast spot just down the road from the hotel, I had croissant but as there was only one left Lynette volunteered to have tosada and coffee.
We walked our first leg, only 3.5km before stopping on a bench seat and eating the apple bought yesterday. It was a rural view one way and highway view the other, we position ourselves for the rural view.
We soldiered on after the break, at the 10.5km mark we had second breakfastses at La Caridad and a chance to kick the shoes off for 10 minutes. We walked straight through town and back on the road, eat, drink, walk then repeat. We saw little until we stopped again for another break and coffee. We hadn't decided at the onset where we were going to stop but we were hoping for Ribadeso and the only way we were going to make it is with frequent foot breaks.
Just before Porcia was a series of old sluice gates, remnants of mills from years past, there was an information board with the story of the Rio Porcia which we found interesting - at only 26km long it had a colourful history.
We then went a little off track - actually the track split we wanted to go the shorter route to Ribadeo but we had started on the longer coastal route. We stopped at a bar to recharge, by this time it was very warm out so we wanted a longer break, the bar didn't have food to serve but had food on the bar to help yourselves, we had a boiled egg each, some chorizo, bread and cheese, some peanuts, I had a beer, it was a good break, then we headed back down the TC2 road to get back on track.
The final leg from Brol to Figeuras was awful, hot and more road pounding. It probably would have been better if we had gone the coastal route. The town of Tol was supposed to have an Alburgue and coffee according to the Wise Pilgrim App, the Albergue was closed and no cafes. The app is not up to date, this is probably the 3rd Albergue we have passed that has been closed since we downloaded this App.
We had to stop in Tol anyway to rest the feet again, Lynette's feet were playing up today. We eventually headed on, we had  coffee stop in Figeuras, only just over a kilometer left to go.
The entry to Ribadeo was across a long high bridge, the town looked great nestled on a hill but the day was very smoggy I didn't even bother taking a photo as I knew it would be rubbish. On a clear day it would be very photogenic. We completed the 33km walk at 7.00pm. We booked in at a Pension across from a big park / kids playground, we both flopped on the bed and coudn't move. Eventually I got up showered and did the washing, Lynette followed, then we went in search of a Orange Telco shop as Lynette needed to recharge her phone and was having difficulties online. The shop was a about 500 meters from our hotel but felt like miles. Then the agent also had trouble and there were no chairs, couldn't stand long on the flat of the foot as it hurt, moved to the balls of the feet but that hurt, moved to the heels that hurt, most uncomfortable.
Then we when in search of a restaurant, it was harder than we had imagined as most places were just bars serving Tapas, we wandered far too much on the weary pegs, we found a place right next to our hotel that served a menu of the day. The food was good too, a healthy salad to start then the meat and potatoes.
The people on the table next to us had heard our accent ans started up a conversation. They were a retired couple for Sydney who had cycled from Seville to Santiago, then bused over to Ribadeo and were about to cycle back to Santander to catch a ferry to Plymouth. They were both dual passport holders (UK and Dutch) so no Schengen over stay worries for them. We talked until  after 11.00pm. They gave us some good stuff for our travel list.
Next up Ibuprofen and bed.

7-June-2016 Caneras to Navia 28km

Started walking at 8.00am, straight into a uphill section, then along a disused highway across the new highway then along back streets, it seemed we were turning circles for a bit. Before long we had a vista of Luarca, it is an old sea port nestled in by cliffs all around. The road in and out was very steep, the people of the town must be part goat. Here we stopped for breakfast 8km down. Coffee and croissants again, (still like them). Got a boca to go and we went.
The next section of walk was mainly farm track, we stopped in a field aftee an hour to kick the shoes off, drink up and eat the boca. We didn't stop again until Villapedre where we had lunch, although there was one section where we weren't sure if we had missed a turn off and backtracked quite a bit before deciding to continue. At lunch there was a bunch of walkers it seems the numbers are growing. We had Pinchoes, 1ea bacon and cheese and Chorizo omelette for me, 2 soft drinks, 1 coffee, 1 piece of cake for 9€.
After lunch continued on, the day was getting very warm, only 9km to go. We sat down roadside after 5km for a drink and shoes off break, the walk wasn't hard going but it was pretty bland. We were happy to discover that our destination was closer than we thought.
The last part of the walk was down hill on tarmac - it destroyed my feet, the weren't hurting at the top of the hill but by the bottom I felt awful. Had to sit for a while while Lynette tried to navigate whete the nearest accomodation was. There was a pension nearby, we tried that but it was full, there was meant to be a hostel in town but when we got there it was closed. A man directed us to another hotel but when we arrived it had been booked out due to a conference. We tried another and scored well, got an apartment with 2 beds, 1 double, 1 single, 2 rooms, 1 massive bathroom for 50€, a bit more than our budget but saves more hassle of busing out of town and returning to continue the walk.
We thought of a single older lady who was following us that we met today who may have the same troubles so we went back to the pension to meet her and invite her to use the spare bed. The two German girls we met yesterday also wandered into town, Lynette pointed them in the direction of our hotel, and also wished them luck. We had two beers and was ready to go but a harmless drunk guy was talking to Lynette which gave her a chance to practise Spanish. No sooner did he leave then another Spanish local took his place. We had a long conversation, then the single German lady turned up, she had secured a room so all was good. We had another beer together, when we turned down the locals offer to drive up around town and to the beach 8kms away, he seemed to be offended and left us, we were ready to go anyway as we hadn't showered yet.
Once showered we rested for 1/2hr then went in search of food. Hamburgers again tonight with coffee, stopped in a supermarket for ice-cream then home to bed.

6-June-2016 Soto de Luina to Caneras 29km

T Going to bed early kind of back-fired as we both had a lousy nights sleep. Our room smelt as well after we closed the windows, it wasn't us, it smelt like mold.
We packed up and started walking at 7.30am. Just as we started out, the rain started falling. We walked the first 6km before we stopped for breakfast, coffee and toast. It stopped raining so packed up the Ponchos and walked on again. Before long we were in Santa Maria, the next town, another 4kms down and we stopped again for coffee and cake, this is more like it.
The next stretch was a long one, there were lots of deviations bringing us closer to the beaches, it would have been beautiful if it wasn't raining but the rain kept the temperature down, although it was steamy. We passed a few of the secluded beaches talked about in our guide book, they were secluded but better brind a stone mat.
The walk was mainly off road but in and out of valleys, a real yo-yo effect.
I was organising flights back to work on the way as I need to return a day early for a medical.
We arrived in Cadavedo 20kms down at 1.45pm at the Hotel Asur Regal for the menu of the day. Salad for starters, pork and potatoes for mains. We kicked off the shoes and had a good break.
After lunch the guide books said 6km more to Canero, we took off again believing that lie, the day had really heated up and we were back to the majority of road walking although this was broken up from time to time with nice forest walks. We had a good break after crossing the highway outside of Queruas once again rubbing some life back into our tired feet. We walked on about 1.5km when I realized I had left my pack rain cover at our last break, so I told Lynette to cool her heels in the shade and I ran back, it was refreshing not to have a pack on, ran with ease and a little delight.
Got the pack back on and continued the journey, finally made it to the only hotel/restaurant in Canero at 5.10pm, a long days walk.
We asked for a room and there was a lot of ums and ahs before OK and they showed us a nice double room with ensuite, scored well again.
We didn't rest and shower straight away, this time we drank, we had counted on getting in an hour earlier and had drunk all of our water on the way, so two soft drinks and two beers (for me) later I was feeling hydrated enough to relax.
While drinking two German girls who we saw yesterday in Soto de Luina but didn't talk to turned up, at first they were told no rooms but then another pilgrim who is an older gent with parkingsons is allowing them to share, if not they would have had to backtrack to Queruas. Distance for the day was 29.3km and 994m ascent but highest point only 209m. Restaurant opens at 8.30.
We went to dinner half an hour early to get a good start on the wine, dinner was like lunch, salad first then substitute the pork for chicken, same same only different.
Finished the meal with an egg flan with custard and coffee, then straight to bed. Day 11 done and dusted over 300km down.

5-June-2016 Soto del Baco to Soto de Luina 20km

Woke late, went for breakfast around 9.00am, they had a full spread but after last nights meal settled for fruit, yoghurt and pastries.
Packed up and started walking at 10.15am, first stop was only 4.6km in, it was a beautiful little town with a central plaza, tree covered complete with nice church in the background, as soon as we sat down we had a waiter asking us what we wanted, he actually guessed, dos cafe con leche grande. It came with biscuit and a chocolate, the best kind of coffee.
We walked on, at the 8km mark, we were at the next town, it was too early to have another coffee but we found a nice set of steps to take the boots off for a while.  This is the plan for today, stop every hour, take the boots off, rub life back into the feet, then continue. I found a tick on me here which I promptly removed.
The next stop was at 13km, we found a nice plot of mown grass on the roadside and plonked down full stretch, Lynette broke out some biscuits she had stashed at breakfast time, what a treat.
The walk itself was pleasant today, a lot of ups and downs and felt warm although only 21 deg C, but the majority was off road with tree cover, occasional beach views. We listened to Spanish lessons and 'All in the Mind' podcasts.
We arrived at our destination in Soto de Luina at 4.00pm. We booked in at the hostel, had a shower small rest then walked up the road to see what town had to offer. Stopped at the first open pub, had a couple of beers a pack of chips (because we can't get enough patayas). Then we continued our walk through town which took all of five minutes, being Sunday nothing is open, we went to a bar we passed on the way into town that advertised meals served at 18:00 but as soon as we walked in we knew we weren't going to eat there, it smelled musty, full of mold. We went back to the bar we had been earlier and ordered a couple of hamburgers, then off to bed early as we were both tired.

4-June-2016 Gijon to Soto del Baro 18km walking, 21km by train

Today we had decided to have a rest day, breakfast was meant to be at eight, we waited and waited. The young girl on her own didn't wait long before she headed off. We gave up waiting for the breakfast room to open, grabbed our packs and walked to town, but not much was open there either so headed to the waterfront where we found a cafe open.
After breakfast we just wandered, along the beach, then around, stopped into the Roman bath museum, wandered over the headlands with the battlements down past the docks and ferries, stopped for doughnut and coffee, went to the next beach where there was a beach volleyball tournament going on, then finally down the road to the train station. By this stage ww had walked 9km with our backpacks on.
We bought tickets to Aviles as the next stage of walking is meant to be through industrial estate. The train was due in half an hour so we had more coffee and I had a small salami and cheese bocadillo. We thought once we got to Aviles we would start walking to Salinas which is only 6.9km to break up the next stage which is 39km we looked at accommodation and there was none. We pretty much decided to just start walking and take our chances on finding a Posada. We made it to Salinas and felt good, continued but there was nothing else for a long stretch, the next town was Soto del Barco booking.com show all hotels full but we thought we would try anyway. Lynette got to put her Spanish to good use, the first place she rang was Completo. She was very excited that she was understood and had understood the response. The next place she tried had a room, Lynette told the receptionist that we were walking and that we would be two hours more.
As it was it took two hours fifteen minutes to arrive after 18kms added to the 9km around town, it made for a big day. Good thing we booked this hotel though, it is our most expensive at 70€ but has a full spa. Sauna, Jacuzzi, foot spa and fanastic pool with soothing jets to massage every part of our weary bodies.
We hadn't arrived until 7.00pm so we only spent an hour in the spa before hunger overtook the need to soothe, we wandered towards town and Lynette got to practice her Spanish again by asking a local where to eat. He gave very clear instructions, to a restaurant about 1/2 km away which had a Saturday special of meat fest for two. It was massive, took us ages to get through it. The meal, bottle of nice wine and ice cream for one plus bread was 28€ well worth it. Walked back to our nice hotel, the Magdalena with just one stop for tea and coffee on the way.

3-June-2016 Villaviciosa to Gijon 25km

Breakfast at the hotel was at 7.00 this morning, we had the basic hostel breakfast then headed out at 8.00am, our earliest start yet. The days walk was our hilliest so far, total elevation 860 meters. The stop for coffee was at the 15km mark in Peon. When we arrived in was 10 to 11 there were 11 walkers waiting for the restaurant to open. By the time they opened 3 had left but more had turned up, Lynette ran in when the door was open to get two cafe con leches. We had snacks brought from the supermarket the previous night.
After lunch was a big uphill section, it took a while to get the walking legs going again. Eventually we arrived at the Deva camp ground, we were contemplating catching a bus into Gijon but decided to start walking and we would call a taxi if required. We listened to a pod cast about brain injury after concussion and treatment with glasses to create the new neural pathways, it was engrossing and we kept discussing the episode all the way into town. We parked up at our second Albergue. Albergue del peregrones, we are in a shared room with two other female walkers. We were first in so showered, dressed and headed to town for late lunch/early dinner or linner. Lynette had the menu of the day with stuffed capsicum followed by mushrooms and garlic prawns. I had the meat dish, 4 different meats, ribs, chops, sausages and chicken wrapped in bacon with potatoes. Bread and a bottle of vino, which we did finish this time, all for 22€.
We waddled out after our linner and walked along the river walk to the beach, this is the biggest town we have been in for a week, Friday afternoon lots of people and activities at the beach. We are looking at the roller blades and skateboards and wondering if we can pack them in for the El Camino roller derby.
After the walk wandered back to the Albergue, I had a sleep while Lynette sat in the garden with a wine. In bed by 10.00.

2-June-2016 Colonga to Villaviciosa 18km

A short days walk today, breakfast was included with the room price but didn't start untul 8.30am, we decided we could afford the time. It was a very basic cup of coffee, toast and jam. We started walking as the the chuch bells chimed nine.
The days walk was nothing special about 3/4 of it on road.
As we were about to enter Sebrayo two French guys has set up a road side cafe, it has everything, French champagne, biscuits, salami, ham hanging, wine and beer and coffee. We had a nice cup of brewed coffee and a seat. Enoungh to recharge the batteries. When we came to the cafe there were already 3 French walkers, while we were seated, two more from France and a guy from Denmark turned up. The biggest crowd of walkers we have seen on this trip.
We complete the remaining 6kms into town, arriving at the Congressor Hostel at 1.00pm. Got the double room with ensuite and breakfast included for 15€ each, perfecto . We both had a bath each with our washing, then went in search of a big lunch, went to a local Sideria (Cider bar) ordered a bottle of cider for 2.50€, (which was all it was worth), I had a big plate of chilli chick peas with pork bits (mainly skin), Lynette had the tuna salad which was huge, bread came as accompaniment. Saw Paul and Penny (Aussie couple we met yesterday) arrive to the same hostel and said hello.
After lunch was a nana nap. About 5.00pm we went to explore town. Walked around a lot, had an ice-cream. Went to the Santa Maria church, bought some fruit and rice pudding (yoghurt for Lynette) went back to the hostel around 9.00pm to eat and watch some TV shows on the tablet.
One week walking down and the blisters have almost healed.

1-June-2016 Nueva to Colunga 24km walk 11km train

No Woke at 6.30, only because we couldn't sleep anymore. Got ready and walked to the Nueva train station to get on the train to Ribadesella as we felt the description of this walk included way too much road walking. We met someone later in the day who said they really enjoyed walking this section and not too much road, que sera, sera.
Once at Ribadesella station we had a queer old man who guided us through town to the bridge over the Ria. We head to the beach but didn't find any restaurants so back tracked a little to José cafe and had croissants and 2 coffees, I also snuck in a jamon and egg roll. In the cafe I recognise a photo on the wall, it was a big photo of the story bridge with Brisbane city in the background. So far from home but so close.
The days walk started lovely along the beach promenade, not long enough though before we were in the back streets. About 2km of road we were on a dirt track. It alternated from dirt to sealed for a while. At La Vega beach we stopped for another coffee, after this the track headed uphill to Berbes. Between Berbes and La Isla it all went to shit. Somehow we ended up on the road again instead of walking near the beach, once again our guide book is missing about 7kms of information. Once we discovered our error we found a country lane and headed in the right direction, it once again probably added a couple of kms to the journey. We finally got back to the beach, just before La Isla was a cafe, we stopped for lunch and rest.
After lunch walked along the road again, eventually there was a track running parallel to the road we used, we met another Australian couple along this section, Paul and Penny from Canberra. Talked with them the last 4km into Colonga. They had been walking for 17 days so far. They had a great app which they recommended "Wise Pilgram" it has maps, information on the towns and an accomodation guide. Might be able to stay on the track a bit better with this guide. Once in town we parted ways, they went in search of accommodation we went in search of beer. I don't know how they went but we were successful. Had a tankard of beer, it was a big glass, we downloaded the app and used it to find a cheap hotel nearby, Hotel Entreviñes, one double room with private shower 40€.
One thing we have been disappointed with is the food, it is impossible to get a meal with vegetables. Tonight we went to two different restaurants that were not serving food, we settled for a cafe and had awful hamburgers and fried potatoes, that seem to come with every dish.

31-May-2016 Llanes to Nueva 20km

After messaging Renee, facebooking etc. Wiped the sleep from the eyes and started getting ready for the days walk. We don't have a fixed destination in mind for today, the feet were so sore yesterday decided to rest them when they need it today. I picked up some gel inserts for the boots last night, have all toe nails filed off and two pairs of socks on hopefully that is enough to get through the day.
Left the Posado del Rey at 8.30 and headed to Poo (the name of the town). Lynette was the first to step in Poo. We had breakfast in a Poo Bar (bacon and egg rolls), then wiped the Poo from our boots and headed west. Next town is Celorio, there were many beautiful flowers in bloom along this stretch to the beach, took many photos. We stopped at a supermarket where we bought more batteries for the Garmin (recording not following) and Apples for snacking. Headed down to the beach, the track followed the beach, but it was short lived, we were back on road before we knew it. The days walking alternated between sealed path, concrete path and dirt track and road, not enough dirt track for my liking. The highlight of the day was walking towards the Inglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, a nice little church on the water. As we were walking up a nice country lane we met a man who told us where to stay in Nuevo, he offered to ring ahead but I told him que sera, sera. Next point of interest was a monastery in bad repair, it looks like it is being renovated, which is good. Our guide book said 17km to Nuevo but 17 came and went, it turned out to be 20km. I hate that guide book author. We got into town and went to the place we were told about, Casa Principal, a double bed, shared toilet facilities and washing done for 25€. We showered then headed out for lunch at 3.30 pm we had the menu de dia again, had bean soup with chorizo, bread, beef goulash, chips, ice cream (torte for Lynette) , bottle of wine, small bottle of  beer and coffee for 22€. We are thinking of the train in the morning so we decided to walk to the station to check the timetable, we saw a pharmacy and stopped to get more ibuprofen. We got 40 600mg tablets for 1.95€ what a bargain.
One of the local beers here is called Estrella (star) it sounds like Australia and Oi means today, so I reckon Estrella, Estrella, Estrella, Oi, Oi, Oi mean 3 beers and hurry up about it.

30-May-2016 Munorrodero to Llanes 24km walk, 7km train

We both had a good nights sleep, packed up and were walking by 8.10 am. We walked straight through Unquera, intending to stop in Colombres for breakfast, as in the guide it was described as a lively little town. It might be lively if you go to the center, but the track takes you just on the outskirts, we were through it before we knew it, breakfastless and feeling gypped on the lively.
This is the town we are catching the train from, the mornings walk was 9km to the station, we arrived at 10.30 and train is due 10.55. It arrived at 11.05, we got on for the one stop ride that would cut 7 kms of road walking out of our day. The three German girls we met yesterday were already on the train. We all got off at Pendueles, the train station is about a kilometer out of town, we walked in and found a cafe, had coffee and croissants, as there isn't another stop for a while we also bought lunch, two bananas and two bocadillos. The girls headed off first, ten minutes later off we went towards Camping de Paz a small Playa (beach). We followed the coast to some blowholes, the tide wasn't right so no blow, only what sounded like heavy breathing. This is where we stopped for lunch and a Siesta. After about half an hour the Germans girls turned up, somehow we had passed them.
We walked on to the small town of Andrin, from here the track followed the road uphill, this is where the sore feet and knees came into play again, from here we could see our destination but it was still 4 kms away. The coast was beautiful to look at and the track was high in the hills overlooking town and the coast, if only the legs weren't so sore. Made it to town eventually, stopped for a couple of limon frescas before a beer. Then down the road to find accommodation. We liked the posado we were in last night so headed to another Posado. This time Posado del Rey. It is a little more expensive at 45€ but roomy with private bath again. The owner took Lynette in hand and showed her her family, all 10 children, multiple grandchildren and her great grand-daughter who is 18. This was the first building in the first street in town. We think Emporor Charles V may have visited here.
Most restaurants don't open for meals until after 8.00pm, so we slept for a while before heading out, we would have liked to have walked to the beach but Lynette's small toe is painful and both of the balls of my feet, we could just make it to the restaurant.
We both ordered the meal of the day (menu del dia) which gives a choice of about 6 items for 1st course, the same again for 2nd course, a choice of desserts, bread with olive oil and/or vinegarette and a bottle of red wine for 10€ each.
I had two draft beers, spaghetti and bolognese then some sort of schnitzel and coconut torte, Lynette had salad, pulled beef, chocolate torte and most of the bottle of wine. Our feet were feeling just fine but the legs were wobbly.

29-May-2016 Comillas to Munorrodero 24km

Woke up after a great nights sleep, Lynette not so, she had slept well until 1.00am then had listened to the hall clock chime off the hours until 4.30 am. I let her sleep on until 8.00am then had to wake her to get moving. As it was we didn't leave the accomodation until 9.00 am. We walked to town and had the same breakfast as yesterday, coffee and croissants, this time though the croissants were toast, they were beautiful, what a delicious treat.
After breakfast and talking to people inside and outside the cafe we didn't start walking until 10.00am. We headed out of town towards the river. About 15 minutes later had a message from Chantal replying to a message I had sent earlier, we video called her, it was a 3 for 1 call, spoke to Chantal, Lila and Jeremy. Lila had been sick lately and was excited to show us the two pills she had to take daily. Jeremy had arrived in back to Australia recenty and had spent half the week working for Andy, he was still excited by it. After the call we continued the walk, not long after we had a beautiful view with river leading to a sandy beach (complete with sailboat passing by) on one side and snow covered mountains on the other.
We headed roughly along the coast but with only the occasional glimpse. Then inland past the Santa Maria Golf Course at Santa Ana. At the 12km mark we came into San Vicente de la Barquera, a beautiful little seaside village. It was very picturesque, we crossed the bridge into town and rested in the park. After 1/2 hr we bought a jamon and queso bocadillo from a nearby cafe and headed up the hill and out of town, which was surprisingly quick. It wasn't long before we were heading sharply uphill. I had picked this point to start eating the bocadillo, I had to give up as I could gasp and eat at the same time. Once on top of the hill we had a view of San Vincente way back.
The track then deteriorated back to road walking, then the rain started again, which once again cooled down the day. We hadn't walked in the rain long when we came to Serdio, a small town with a bar. We took the opportunity to get out of the wet and to enjoy a beer or two as well. We meet two German girls who were staying the night for 7.00€ each and three more German girls who had only walked 6 km and had had enough, they had ordered a taxi to take them to the nearest station then they were travelling to Llanes, our destination tomorrow. After two beers the rain stopped, we walked a futher 4 km to Munorrodero, we had had enough walking by this stage, we walked to a local accomodation Posado de Muno. The hostess here was lovely, we had a great room with full private bathroom for 40.00€, she drove us to the local cafe after we had had a bath and rest, arranged for the manager to call her at the end of our meal, came back to take us home and told us a bit about the region. She made our day. Tomorrow we have planned to miss a bit of the road walking out - until then..

28-May-2016 Santillana del Mar to Comillas

Woke around 7.00am and tested the legs as the toilet was beckoning, the ibuprofen we took last night must have done the job as a. I had a good nights sleep and b. My legs aren't too sore. Lynette had had a reasonable night sleep after she closed the shutter as a light was shining in her eyes before that.
We packed up, dressed in our slightly wet clothes, hung our wet socks on the outside of the packs and walked towards the camp-ground which is the way out of town.
We only made it 300 m before we found a place open for breakfast, stopped for coffee and croissants.
Headed off for the second time up hill and out of town. One kilometer later we had our first bit of uncertainty about the road to Arroyo, we thought we should be on a track but we were on a main road, which turned out to be correct, just down the main road was the single car track, still paved but no traffic. We actually felt good walking wise for about 10 km and the scenery was much better than yesterday, as it was hillier than yesterday eventually the blisters started playing up, then the knees again. We stopped against a wall to pop the same blisters we popped last night, Lynette changed into her Keens, with socks, quiet the look that is. We continued into Cobreces which was situated at a perfect distance for us to make a good long lunch break to recover. It is 12.8km in with a little over 10km to go. The town itself is small but has an impressive church.
We had come off the track a little to eat and while sitting there had seen 4 walkers go past so after lunch we blindly followed them, at the next Junction was a shell marker and arrow, once again we blindly followed, about 500 meters down the road we started to question if it was the correct way, it was not. So back up the road we went, but instead of going all the way back to the track we took a short-cut down the main road. A short cut but very hard on the feet. We joined the Camino del Norte again in Venta de Tramalon. About a kilometer later we stopped for a beer in La Iglesia the sky to the West was looking ominous, ten minutes later in Pando we got to try out our Ponchos, as there was heavy rain, lightning and thunder. The lightning was close but not too close to worry about and the rain had made for a pleasant walking temperature so we kept going all the way to the end in Comillas. Once there we took a break to fish out information on where the Albergue was, we found it OK but once again we were too late. We had arrived at 4.15pm, the first guest in the Albergue had arrived at 12.30 and the 20th (full) at 2.30pm. We asked for recommendation and the lady at reception showed us a house with rooms to let and rang ahead to ask if there was room, there was for €15.00 each again - bargain we took it up.

27-May-2016 Santander to Santillana del Mar

The day started off very leisurely with a full breakfast. We took the obquitory pieces of fruit for the walk, returned to the room and pulled out the notes for the first time. We were under the impression we were walking 24 km but the notes said 32 km. It was 9.00am before we started walking. We utilized Google maps to navigate through town, probably 1/2 hr into the walk we got excited when we saw our first shell marker in the pavement. We were planning on stopping every hour, the first hour was on a picnic table near a main road as this seemed to be the track. We didn't have a good break again still 12.30 when we finally found a place suitable to stop. I had a coke, Lynette a cup of coffee and we ate our fruit.We reas the guide again, there is a 7km shortcut across a railway bridge spanning the river, we were up for that. It had rails both ways and we had just seen a train cross so we walked on that side off the tracks. Halfway across the bridge the rails started humming, there was another train coming, it was clear in the direction behind us as we could see for miles in that direction so it wqs coming towards us, we crossed over just in time to see a freight train coming down the rails we were just walking on. Got to the end of the bridge and took a photo to remember the excitement. The rest of the day was just more road walking. We had another stop at 2.30 where I had a couple of beers. The feet and knees we already sore. After this it was just a slog, we stopped again at the 27km mark and we still had 10km to go. Something wrong with the days km forecast. At this stage we had to make a decision, continue or stop and make up the kms later or catch the train. Stupidly we continued all the way. We were so glad to get to town, we missed where the first Albergue was a were standing there trying to make a decision but we were both exhausted when two young girls, also walkers must have recognised our distress and offered help. There took us to the first Albergue but it was full, he rang another, it still had room so off we went. We arrived at Casona Solar de Hildalgos, the proprietor was a very humorous guy who is obviously used to sore and tired walker, we took up the private room for 15 Euro each and got a chocolate eachvas a welcome gift - it was much loved. Hot shower and bed what else do we need. We cleaned up, did our washing, popped our blisters and went in search of beer and food.  Didn't have to walk far thankfully, there was a bar and restaurant straight across the street, still took about five minutes to get there. After dinner took a short hobble arond the very picturesque medieval village. It was getting a bit cool after a very warm day so we headed in at about 9.00pm. Got to rest up for tomorrow.

26-May-2016 Madrid to Santander

Paul arrived into Madrid from Accra via Lisbon at 9.00am. Lynette had caught the metro to meet him from her Student accommodation where she has been studying Spanish for the last three weeks. Enjoyed at cup of cafe con leche at the airporto before buying the metro tickets from P2 for 5 euro each back into town. We repacked, showered and headed to the train station Chamartin where in the parking lot is a luggage storage facility for 3.60 euro a day. We left Lynette's suitcase and enjoy a bocadillo before boarding the 14.30 train to Santander. This was a 4 hour journey where we could watch the changing country side go past. Lot of beautiful poppy by the side of track, vast plains, snow covered mountains, hilly country, industrial estates, towns amazing roads and bridges, lots to see. Once we arrived in Santander we checked into the Silken Coliseum hotel dropped our backbacks then went in search of good beer. We went via the waterfront first stopped for the first beer, then went up onecof the many pedestrian streets where we had our second with tapas before continuing to a restaurant where we had a glass of red with gourmet burger, ot bad for a first day. Looking forward to walking tomorrow, we have breakfast included so don't think it will be an early start.