Slept late this morning as it was cold and wet outside, conditions conducive to stay in the warmth. There was another reason we were delaying, today is the day we leave the Norte and join the Frances we are a bit apprehensive about being lost in the crowd.
We grabbed a coffee to go ( cafe con leche, llevar) next door to where we were staying, then headed off into the rain ☔. Our breath was steaming and hands freezing on our walking poles. We found if we pulled one hand inside the poncho it was still sealing the rain out and kept the other hand warmer. At one juncture I took Lynette's pole so she could keep both hands warm.
At the 8km mark was our first coffee break at Boimil. Hammish, Sarah and her dog Felix were already there. Up until today we had always taken our coffee outside if possible but it was too cold today, Sarah had to endure the cold to be with her dog which she had covered with rain coats to keep warm, she was an impressive woman, she hiked with her tent for herself and the dog, a good supply of dog food and lord knows what else.
Others arrived, Stefan a Hungarian guy, Chris and Julie the other Australian couple and others we knew by face only. It was like a farewell. We all stuck around for a while to ward off the cold and to see if there was to be a break in the rain.
Lynette and I were the first to leave again. The next stop was to be our lunch, it was only 4km away but all road walking. We found a nice bakery just before exiting Boimorto, they had a bread with bacon and cheese baked inside, it was warmed up for us. It was delicious.
The rest of the walk was all road walking in the rain. It was kind of surreal as there was nobody else in sight and we know we are heading to large crowds. Even one kilometer out there was no sign of the Frances crowds. In fact we met a Spanish woman coming back towards us who thought she must have taken a wrong turn somewhere because of the lack of people.
When we did arrive in Arzua at about 2.00pm there weren't that many people on the streets as the rain had forced people indoors. We tried 4 pensions before we found one that wasn't full. Still a resonable rate at 40€. Lynette was freezing and headed straight under covers, I had a shower and washed the clothes. After Lynette warmed up she also showered then we went in search of coffee, after coffee came two alcoholic beverages, Stefan the Hungarian guy arrived we chatted a while, then we went in search of food again.
There was a nice looking restaurant we passed on the way to our pension that offered the meal of the day special, we timed it perfectly by chance to be there just as the doors opened. Lynette had a broad bean, tomato and garlic starter, I had green peas with chorizo and bacon, it was a treat to get some vegetables at last. The mains were meat and potatoes of course, and it was good. Pastry was apple tart for me and of course we finished the bottle of red wine that came with the meal and all of the bread. All finished with a couple of cafe con leches. During the course of being here I have reduced the cup size to the smaller cup the locals use, the coffee just tastes better than the grande size. As it is in a smaller cup I think I am more aware of making it last longer by taking smaller sips which, to me, enhances the taste.
During the course of the meal the restaurant had filled, we were finally starting to see the crowds.
We returned to our room and settled down to sleep at 10.00pm. At 2.00am we were both awake as some revellers on the street were making their rooster impressions by being cocks and a deaf neighbour had returned to the room and decided to watch TV at high volume. Welcome to the crowds of the Frances way.
Such selfless pilgrims full of respect. Respect for the historic journey. Respect for the hardships endured by past travellers. Respect for their current fellow travellers.
Selfless pilgrims trying to discover their true selves, where they put the phone and where the damn keys to the room are. In the morning the same selfless pilgrims will try to discover how they spent that 100€ last night.
I have discovered within myself true peace starts with keeping the mouth still.
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