16-June-2016 Arzua to O Pedrouzo 22km

Woke up and had coffee in the cafe next door, returned to the room,  packed up and walked out the door as the church bells pealed nine. The weather was fine-ish, we pulled the pack covers on but left the Ponchos off. It wasn't long before we joined the mainstream of the combined routes of the Camino de Santiago, and it was crazy, wall to wall people, at least most were heading in the same direction.
We started the day feeling great in the body department. It didn't seem long before we stopped for more coffee and breakfast at about the 6 km mark. The toilet line was a sight to behold about 20 deep. The walk itself was beautiful with many long worn country lanes meandering through dark forests. It was nice, with the obquitory road passages thrown in. Most of the paths were paved. We didn't really stop again other than to chat at another restaurant where we met Brian, an NZ guy we met last night and Dick and Gene a Canadian couple from Montreal. We plodded on to O Pedrouzo, whem we arrived we basically went door to door from pension to pension but all were full, then we started on the Albergues, they also were full. We sat at a cafe and let our fingers do the hard work, using booking.com we found a pension (Pension O Meson) 5kms out of town that still had room, waved down a taxi and off we went.
Once there we were shown our room. We dropped our packs and when for something to eat and saw Sarah and Hamish at the bar. We told them our story and that all ahead was booked out. They rang a few more Albergues both sides of town with no luck. They also decided to stay here. Sarah put up her tent in the football field next door. Hamish had his kids arriving today to walk the last leg of the Camino with dad, so he booked a room.
We ate, we showered, we washed clothes, we slept, we woke, we went downstairs and met Hamish again with his kids, Matt and Hannah. We enjoyed a couple of beers together while watching Northern Ireland beat Ukraine. Then Lynette and I went for a bit of a walk to get bearings on where we were. We returned, we watched a little more football, we ate, we slept.

15-June-2016 Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzua 24km

Slept late this morning as it was cold and wet outside, conditions conducive to stay in the warmth. There was another reason we were delaying, today is the day we leave the Norte and join the Frances we are a bit apprehensive about being lost in the crowd.
We grabbed a coffee to go ( cafe con leche, llevar) next door to where we were staying, then headed off into the  rain ☔. Our breath was steaming and hands freezing on our walking poles. We found if we pulled one hand inside the poncho it was still sealing the rain out and kept the other hand warmer. At one juncture I took Lynette's pole so she could keep both hands warm.
At the 8km mark was our first coffee break at Boimil. Hammish, Sarah and her dog Felix were already there. Up until today we had always taken our coffee outside if possible but it was too cold today, Sarah had to endure the cold to be with her dog which she had covered with rain coats to keep warm, she was an impressive woman, she hiked with her tent for herself and the dog, a good supply of dog food and lord knows what else.
Others arrived, Stefan a Hungarian guy, Chris and Julie the other Australian couple and others we knew by face only. It was like a farewell. We all stuck around for a while to ward off the cold and to see if there was to be a break in the rain.
Lynette and I were the first to leave again. The next stop was to be our lunch, it was only 4km away but all road walking. We found a nice bakery just before exiting Boimorto, they had a bread with bacon and cheese baked inside, it was warmed up for us. It was delicious.
The rest of the walk was all road walking in the rain. It was kind of surreal as there was nobody else in sight and we know we are heading to large crowds. Even one kilometer out there was no sign of the Frances crowds. In fact we met a Spanish woman coming back towards us who thought she must have taken a wrong turn somewhere because of the lack of people.
When we did arrive in Arzua at about 2.00pm there weren't that many people on the streets as the rain had forced people indoors. We tried 4 pensions before we found one that wasn't full. Still a resonable rate at 40€. Lynette was freezing and headed straight under covers, I had a shower and washed the clothes. After Lynette warmed up she also showered then we went in search of coffee, after coffee came two alcoholic beverages, Stefan the Hungarian guy arrived we chatted a while, then we went in search of food again.
There was a nice looking restaurant we passed on the way to our pension that offered the meal of the day special, we timed it perfectly by chance to be there just as the doors opened. Lynette had a broad bean, tomato and garlic starter, I had green peas with chorizo and bacon, it was a treat to get some vegetables at last. The mains were meat and potatoes of course, and it was good. Pastry was apple tart for me and of course we finished the bottle of red wine that came with the meal and all of the bread. All finished with a couple of cafe con leches. During the course of being here I have reduced the cup size to the smaller cup the locals use, the coffee just tastes better than the grande size. As it is in a smaller cup I think I am more aware of making it last longer by taking smaller sips which, to me, enhances the taste.
During the course of the meal the restaurant had filled, we were finally starting to see the crowds.
We returned to our room and settled down to sleep at 10.00pm. At 2.00am we were both awake as some revellers on the street were making their rooster impressions by being cocks and a deaf neighbour had returned to the room and decided to watch TV at high volume. Welcome to the crowds of the Frances way.
Such selfless pilgrims full of respect. Respect for the historic journey. Respect for the hardships endured by past travellers. Respect for their current fellow travellers.
Selfless pilgrims trying to discover their true selves, where they put the phone and where the damn keys to the room are. In the morning the same selfless pilgrims will try to discover how they spent that 100€ last night.

I have discovered within myself true peace starts with keeping the mouth still.

14-June-2016 Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes 26km

Had breakfast in the Albergue at 7.00am, fresh coffee and bread/toast and jam. About a third of the people had already left we packed up said our goodbyes, recieved a nice send off from the volunteers and started the walk at 7.30am.
The walk took us through a granite quarry which was interesting. The rain returned but not too heavy to begin with. Today was the first day we could see fellow walkers at all times, things are getting busy.
Our initial walk was 20kms without a break other than technical stops and a quick delve in the pack for snacks. There was a lot of road walking and the rain increased in volume the further we went and it was cold.
The last part of the walk took us around a man made lake. We saw that the Albergue didn't open until 4.30 so we decided to get a room in the hotel. A good choice we had a hot shower and dried off, then went to eat. We saw a irish fellow, Hamish and Italian girl Sarah who had been walking with her Labrador. Hamish said they was a big crowd over at the gates of the Albergue huddled in an archway out of the rain waiting for the gates to open. He was freezing so had come for some coffee to warm up. They had come to town about an hour after us and had walked in a downpour.
We slept the afternoon away. Went out later to look at the monastery and to the supermarket for supplies, then went back to the cosy room for an early night.

13-06-2016 Baamonde to Miraz 14kms

We had a good chance for a sleep in this morning but failed, we were up at 6.30am. We decided to go back to the car wash / service station / cafe for breakfast. Had a coffee and an enormous croissant, but the croissant was more like a bread loaf than the nice fluffy, flaky delight I have become accustomed to.
After breakfast it was pack up time, we faffed around a bit, it wasn't until 7.40am that we began the days walk. It was raining when we left and looked like it had settled in.
The walk started down the main road, it wasn't long though before we crossed the train track and found ourselves on a nice scenic bridge, not long after we were at a very old chapel in a hidden grove, it was very nice. The walk continued to be a good one, in the 14kms we stopped twice for coffee and I had the camera out more today than the last couple of days.
We decided to stay at the albergue in Miraz, it sleeps about 28, all in one room with toilets and reception in the centre and kitchen and communal dining/lounge at the other end.
It doesn't open until 3pm but Lynette saw movement inside and tried the door, one of the host let us in as it was raining they were letting people in early. Ww had arrived at 12 and sat around drinking tea, eating biscuits and having a good old yarn with people.
At about 2.30 we went to the pub next door for a beer or 3 and a bocadillo. Spain was playing the Chezh Repulic in the Euro cup so we watched that from start to finish, Spain won 1-0.
We returned for a rest but ended up speaking to a Perth couple we had met on the road yesterday, Julie and Chris. At 7.00 we went to the local church to check it out and hear it's story, hosted by the staff of the Albergue. It was good, straight after we went to another pub up the road for the pilgrims meal. Soup, chicken and rice, wine, bread and dessert for 9€ each. Julie and Chris met us there, we had a good old laugh, didn't get back until 9.45, ww thought lockout may be at 10.00 but it was 10.30. It was a good relaxing day.

12-June-2016 Abidan to Baamonde

Started walking at 7.40am, it was cool with a stiff head wind, the day I started with a sweater on, it didn't last long though before it was unbearable hot.
The first break was meant to be at the 14km mark but we were pleasantly surprised to find a bar at 8kms instead. We had our breakfast, coffee and toast, the walk today was mainly on country lanes either side of the main road. We passed a nice medieval bridge along the way at the 14km mark we had coffee again, then at Vilalba we had to make the decision, stop here or continue another 20km to Baamonde. We stopped in a small cafe to order lunch, a bacon and cheese bocadillo and an apple tart. We kept walking, the days walk had been easy but straight after lunch we headed quite steeply down to cross the river then uphill a lot to get back out again. About 3 km out of town we stopped in a field to eat our lunch. It had started raining and stopped again since we left town, the Ponchos made good ground sheets to lay out on to have a good break.
We rest of the walk was a bit of a blur, we passed an albino peacock that was interesting. At one place there were plastic Coca-Cola chairs outside so Lynette open the door only to realise it was someone's house. The owner was good about it and showed us where the hotek was.
Coming into town was another heart breaker, the road had diverted quite a bit adding to the end, then the hostel was outside of town but at the far end. In the end we had walked 42km. Lynette had considered filling her boots with dog poo to soften the impact of the road. The hostel was best described as a functional box, it did the job, no frills. We crashed on the bed for a while, to wait for the feet to stop humming. After about 20 minutes I got up to shower and wash the clothes.
The petrol station next door was also the restaurant and cafe, the restaurant didn't start until 9.00 but the cafe served some food, we order salad and pizza as we weren't going to last until 9.00 pm. This waa enjoyed immensely. After eating I had to go walk around the car park while Lynette ordered ice cream, this is because I was just short of 50,000 steps for the day on my fitbit. That done enjoyed the ice cream and shut down for the day.

11-June-2016 Lourenza to Abadin 28km

We started walking at 7.40am after a decent nights sleep, the first part of the journey was quite steep but in didn't last long before it was a more gradual climb. It was a very rural walk. We had new sign posts and mile markers showing us the way to Mondonedo. We stopped of for breakfast and two coffees this morning. In Mondonedo is a nice looking old monastery but it is closed so no look inside.
Once we started walking again it was a steeo climb out of town, in wasn't long before we were looking down on the town and monastery. The next stage was long but very pretty, we were gradually heading up a long valley, plenty of off road walking, and most of the road walking could be done on the soft verge, a much better day for the feet.
We didn't have another sit until the end of the days walk, we only stopped at the top of particularly big hills and to get bearings.
We met a British couple about 5 kms from the finish who we started talking to and didn't finish talking to until we left then at the albergue in Gontan which is just before our destination of Abadin.
We arrived at 2.00pm, or nce in town we booked into a pension for 39€ then dumped the packs and headed across the road to the El Paso bar/restaurant for the menu of the day. We had an excellent meal there for 3€ more that we paid for the accomodation but it was worth it.
We returned to the room and showered / washed clothes, then shut down into sleep mode for a while.
At around 6 we went out again, we had seen a lot of soccer players wandering around so went in search of the football field, we found it but no players, kept looking found the players at the local school but they were wrapping up for the day. Went back to the bar as there is nothing else in this town, had a coffee, then went to the supermarket and bought some junk food and went back to the pension to watch some TV on the tablet.
We are going to attempt the 40km walk tomorrow but it depends on Lynette's heels, we intend on leaving early, breakfast at 14km, decision point at 20km, if the feet are OK we go for it, if not we arrive early.

10-June-2016 Ribadeo to Lourenza 28km

We woke early and we on the road at 7.00am as we had planned. 4.8kms later we were having breakfast just outside of Vilela, the bar was on the far side of town, at first we thought we had missed it. When we arrived there was one lady just leaving, we ordered coffee, two more walkers turned up, we ordered eggs and cheese then the national Spanish cycling team turned up (seemed like it) must have been about 15 guys. Good thing we had ordered already.
The eggs were different, two slices of bread with the center removed and the egg broken into this, then cheese sprinkled on top, then grilled, it was very easy and very nice.
The walk today was very pleasant, the day had started out sprinkling lightly, we had put our Ponchos on, but taken them off again when we got to the first real hill. We left the pack covers on, but all in all it was about 20 deg C with a good breeze so good walking conditions.
We were making good time, at Villamartin Grande we had just come up a long rise when we saw a cafe advertised, this wasn't in any guide books but we thought it too good to pass up and dropped in for another break, our day now consisted of two more legs of around 5kms each.
After leaving this shop we were back to pounding the pavement, it felt like my boots had been filled with concrete, all the aches and pains were returning.
Made it to the next shop in San Xusto for another break. After leaving there the walk was back on dirt roads through a eucalyptus forest, we had caught up with Petra from a few days back and was talking to her for the last leg, which was downhill into Lourenza. We could see the town from about a kilometer out and it didn't take long to get there. We walked Petra up to the Albergue which had 3 rooms, a 4 berth, a 6 berth and an 8 berth. We went back to a pension, we had to phone for someone to come, they said they would be 20 minutes, about 15 minutes later another walker arrived, he also ran and was told about 20 minutes. She did arrive after the second 20, and booked us in, pretty modest place but private bano from 15€ each, it will do. There were only 2 more accomodation options and they looked about the same.
We had baths, did our washing in a machine for the first time this trip and rested.
Later we found a place that had Radler on tap, it was very nice, we had a bocadillo as well to stave off the hunger.
For dinner we bought some yoghurt, milk and muesli and had a breakfast dinner.